The feeding schedule doesn’t really change much for autos vs photos, the timeline is just extended a bit.
In general, it’s a matter of easing into the nutes so the plant is getting a lower strength at first and full strength sometime around veg, and later toning them down toward the end of flower. Past that basic rule you’ll find differences due to genetics and strain, what they do/don’t like or will/won’t take in terms of overfeeding and starvation.
Earlier on, using something like silica can help to beef up the stalks which aids in stem/branch growth and strength. It doesn’t take much of this and similarly gets applied in lower to higher doses as time goes on. One con, though, is in how much it affects pH; it drives it up quite a bit at full strength. I only use silica from around week 3 until week 8 or so (with autos). @Osage turned me on to this stuff.
Around flower time There’s also “PK” (potassium and phosphorus) that can be tweaked to aid in the flower production. I have had some Big Bud powder here for a while now that I’d like to try when I get a grow that looks like she’ll take the extra nutes, which is when I don’t see burnt tips everywhere already.
I’m using pH perfect 3-part set (micro, grow, bloom) but still use grobo bottles 1,2 & 5. I’m also considering using bottles 3 & 4 again for my next grow now that I’ve dealt with the environmental issues in my grow space that originally caused me to experiment with other feeding options. I only stuck with the self-feeding to keep that variable constant after a successful grow, not so much because I felt it was any better than grobo nutes. My suspicion is that the grobo nutes might be better for this use case, as the AN set tends to keep the pH a bit higher than I’d like at times. It’s within range so doesn’t eat up the pH up/down, but I don’t think it’s optimal for the best growth.